Bogolan,Bogolon ,Bogalanfini or Mudcloth
Bogolan,Bogolon or Bogolanfini is the traditional Malian name for mud cloth . In the Bamana language, the term “Bogolan” or “Bogolanfini” literally means Mud cloth -in English. The same term is also applied to the process of making these cloths. "Bogo means earth or mud, lan means with or by means of and fini means cloth.
Bogolon, is a traditional Malian textile tradition that plays a significant role in Malian history and Culture.Having said that,some Bogolan has a cultural significance or meaning whilst it is becoming more common to find pieces that are produced for commercial purposes and are purely decorative pieces with no symbolic significance
It also influences textile design internationally and acts as a representation of African cultural identity and symbolism. It has always been an icon of traditional African Style
Bogolanfini, like any language, can be read if one learns what the symbols mean. The icons have reference to drums, or houses, locations, animals and historical events. Many designs have more complicated meanings beneath the basic appearance.
Malian tradition, Folklore and the laws of behavior acceptable to Malian society are also represented iconically
Malian men weave the cloth from which bogolanfini is made, women do the work that transforms it into an art form, They apply mineral and vegetable pigments to create its colours and patterns. Rural women learn the technique from older female family members and neighbors, initially observing and later assisting and finally creating their own piece of cloth.
Because the lives of women are filled with responsibility of caring for children, food production (tending fields and grinding grain) as well as daily household chores, bogolanfini is generally produced during the dry seasons when there are fewer farming duties. Older women have the time and the talent to devote to bogolanfini production. It offers a rare opportunity for elderly women to continue to contribute to their families’ economic well-being and pass down the tradition and skill involved with bogolanfini production
To make this cloth the artist uses a hand spun and hand woven cloth on which they add designs and their artistic flair and traditional Malian motifs
The process of producing these textiles is very long and complex and involves both men and women. The cloth is handspun and handwoven by men who use local cotton and and weave long rolls of narrow cotton strips on small originally nomadic strip looms.
The strips produced are sewn together to make a large cloth. Nine to ten strips are needed in order to get standard size cloth –about 1.8mx 1.2m. Each strip is around 15 cm wide Traditionally strips were handsewn,but it is more common to find the use of a foot pedal operated zigzag machine
The finished cloth is washed and sun dried The dried cloth is soaked in a mixture of pounded leaves from local trees.
Once dried, the cloth is now ready to be decorated using the mud dye
Traditionally, women were in charge of decorating the cloth. Today both men and women can decorate a cloth, and it is becoming more common to see this being done on a more commercial basis
The artist applies the mud and draws the designs on the dried cloth using a pre-mixed specially fermented mud dye. Traditionally the mud must ferment for up to 12 months to be effective After that the cloth is washed to remove any excess fermented mud dye, dried again in the sun and then it is ready to be used
Mudcloth needs to be treated with care and we suggest that mudcloth products are only dry-cleaned!
We aslo suggest that mudcloth products are not exposed to long and continious exposure to the sun as fading of colours may occur.
Look after your mudcloth products.They will look after you!